With a decade at Vogue and a curatorial role at the V&A, Rachel Garrahan shares her unique perspective on storytelling through jewellery, from Cartier’s iconic pieces to the cultural significance behind them.

Minka & Friends
Meet Rachel Garrahan
Q. You have had an incredibly fascinating journey, from your time immersed in the world of high jewellery and watches at Vogue to now curating at the V&A. Can you take us back to where your story began and what sparked your love for jewellery?
There is an hilarious photo of me aged around 7 in an 80s gymnastics leotard and a full suite of giant pink plastic jewels so I think you should say I've always been a jewellery lover. When I was a teenager I was making and selling beaded neckalces and after the birth of my first child, I studied goldsmithing at UCLA in Los Angeles.
Q. What if your favourite gemstone and why?
There are so many gemstones that I love but I have a soft spot for a black opal. Their ability to capture an entire universe in just one stone is incredible.
Q. During your time at Vogue, you saw countless collections from some of the world’s most exciting designers, have there been any moments during that time that stopped you in your tracks?
Yes I've been incredibly fortunate to have seen wonderful jewels all around the world. I have a particular soft spot for the endless invention of Claire Choisne at Boucheron. Her creations incorporate unlikely materials such as a hi-tech aerspace gels and 3D printing together with the most precious gemstones. They are ambitious yet wearable and beyond your wildest imagination.
Q. The V&A holds such a rich archive of jewellery from across many centuries and cultures, is there one piece or a collection that really stands out and inspires you?
There is a mind-blowing jade sarpech, or turban ornament, in the South Asia gallery. It was created in the 18th century in the Mughal Empire and combines a mosaic of rubies, emeralds and crystals set into the thinnest imaginable jade setting, an unbelievably challenging stone to work with. The entire piece is a masterclass in gem-cutting, setting and harmony of proportion and colour.
Q. Can you tell us a bit about the Cartier exhibition, how long did it take to curate and how did you go about selecting each item? What is your favourite piece from this incredible exhibition.
Thank you for your kind words. It was an absolutely incredible experience. We wanted to tell the story of how Cartier became such a univerally renowned name through exceptional design and craftsmanship and sophisticated storytelling. Every piece we included neded to serve that story in some way and it was absolutely thrilling to include pieces that had never been exhibited before among rarely seen but well-known treasures such as the Maria Felix snake necklace. Two particular favourites for me were the 1937 opal (coincidence? probably not!) and diamond tiara Cartier London created for Mary Cavendish, the future Duchess of Devonshire, and an incredible Cartier Paris Art Deco onyx and diamond sautoir from 1923.



Q. As someone who understands both editorial and curatorial worlds, what do you look for when deciding which pieces to shine a spotlight on?
It's hard to put your finger on one thing but I think there needs to be an element of originality and authenticity to the design and a grace to the craftsmanship. Some collections just have the X factor that make them stand out above everything else.
Q. As someone who has such an invaluable insight into the industry, what are your predictions for jewellery trends in the next coming years? Are you seeing anything in particular coming back into fashion?
Well, I don't think the debate around transparency in metals and gemstones is going anywhere. It's a massive challenge for the industry but one which it must come to terms with. I also think the price of gold is insane and will mean that silver and platinum come back with a vengeance!
Q. What advice would you give to a anyone dreaming of a career in this space, be that design, storytelling or curation.
Get reading and writing, and out and about meeting people. There are so many wonderful stories that deserve to be told. Most importantly, don't give up!
Q. What is your favourite piece in your jewellery box and tell us a bit about it.
This is such a tough question! One piece I treasure is my Emily P Wheeler tiger's eye and gold ring which is set with a beautiful rhodolite. Not only do I love the chunky design and the colour combination but I love that I know exactly where in the world the gem came from. Emily sourced it from Moyo Gems, a project that connects artisanal miners in Tanzania with vocational training and a fair mine-to-market price for their stones.


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